Alberto De Lago, Eduardo Hernandez, Tania Z Reyes, Pinto JR, Albarici VC, Facchini G, Silva MS, Pinheiro ALTA, Pinheiro AS, Eberlin S.
Studies has shown many factors, such skin inflammatory process and prolonged exposure to sunlight, could affect the skin barrier and extracellular matrix inducing a decrease in the synthesis of the major dermal proteins, collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, clinically characterized by wrinkles, rough skin, loss of water and skin tone. In this study, we evaluated in vivo effects of a dermocosmetic formulation in the increase of firmness, elasticity and hydration of the skin by instrumental techniques and perceived efficacy. Preclinical studies consisted on the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid using an in vitro model of human fibroblasts. Clinical evaluation was performed after 14, 30 and 60 days of treatment with the dermocosmetic product and consisted in the sensorial analysis of perceived efficacy through the application of a questionnaire answered by the participants of research. In addition, the following instrumental analysis was performed: cutometry - to evaluate skin firmness and elasticity, corneometry for hydration and image analysis to evaluate wrinkles and expression lines. Human dermal fibroblasts were incubated with non-cytotoxic concentrations of dermocosmetic formulation. Cell culture medium and treatment of cell cultures were replaced each 2 days. Culture supernatants were collected after 1, 14 and 30 days incubation. The levels of total collagen and hyaluronic acid were measured using commercially available kits. ANOVA test was used followed by Bonferroni post-test with a 5% significance level. The instrumental results obtained for firmness and elasticity parameters revealed progressive increases after 14, 30 and 60 days of cosmetic treatment on the face and neck. The analysis of cutaneous hydration, evaluated after 24 hours of application, revealed a 12% increase by corneometry technique. Imaging of the depth and size of wrinkles also revealed significant reductions. In the evaluation of the perceived efficacy, over 80% of the volunteers reported improvements in the attributes of nutrition, softness, luminosity, appearance of wrinkles and expression lines, after 14, 30 and 60 days of cosmetic treatment. In vitro results corroborated the clinical findings demonstrating an increase in the production of total collagen and hyaluronic acid in cultures of fibroblasts treated with the dermocosmetic formulation. According to the results obtained, we can conclude that the dermocosmetic formulation has the ability to stimulate the synthesis of total collagen and hyaluronic acid when compared to untreated group. This effect is directly related to the improvement in skin support, favoring tissue repair and regeneration. In addition, the stimulation in the production of extracellular matrix components contributes to the reduction in formation of expression lines and wrinkles, one of the most important changes in skin aging, conferring an anti-aging activity to the evaluated product.