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Anti-ageing and anti-sebum properties of a cosmetic formulation: in vitro and ex vivo assessments

Anti-ageing and anti-sebum properties of a cosmetic formulation: in vitro and ex vivo assessments
Posted by: Samara Eberlin in 17 de Setembro de 2018

27th EADV (European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology) Congress, Paris, France, 12-16 September, 2018.
Andreia Feital da Costa Pereira, Renan Lage, Mamy Honda Igarashi, Sheila Gomes da Silva, Maurizio Mercuri, Elis Angela de Alcantara Viana, Lucia de Fatia Holanda Paiva de Araújo,Amanda Francielli Pereira, Suelma Natalie de Melo Oliveira, Michelle Sabrina Silva,Gustavo Facchini, Ana Lúcia Alves Tabarini Pinheiro, Samara Eberlin.

The most important function of the skin is to maintain the homeostasis, protecting the body from external aggressions, such as, solar radiation, pollution and xenobiotics. Excessive exposure to environmental factors culminates in changes in normal biological functions resulting in aesthetic changes, such as, appearance of wrinkles, skin dryness, excessive oiliness and, acne formation. Stratum corneum is the main layer responsible for protecting the skin against these external agents and its formation is the result of epidermal proliferation and differentiation. Additionally, to prevent the aged appearance of the skin is essential to stimulate dermal layer cells to produce collagen, the main component of the extracellular matrix responsible for maintaining tissue structure and firmness. Finally, an important aspect to be considered is the effects of environmental factors on the natural cycle of sebaceous gland, which is essential to control the excessive sebum production. It is a trend to optimize cosmetic treatment by reducing the number of products to be applied daily and centralizing a single multi-benefit product for skin health. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effects of a cosmetic product (GlyAHA) on epidermal renewal, collagen production and sebum production. Human sebocytes were stimulated with insulin (10 nM) to induce sebaceous production and treated with GlyAHA at 0.100, 0.0316 and 0.0100 mg/ml for 6 days. Cell lysate were collected for quantification of triglycerides (TG) using a colorimetric assay. Ex vivo skin fragments were treated with GlyAHA for 5 consecutive days, with a 24-hour interval between each application. Fragments were collected, fixed and cryopreserved for evaluation by immunofluorescence of ki67, a cell proliferation marker of epidermal cells, and procollagen type I. Our results demonstrated that the treatment of ex vivo skin cultures with GlyAHA promotes a significant increase in the synthesis of Ki67 (2.65 fold) and pro-collagen type I (58%), when compared to the respective controls (p<0.01). Additionally, we observed that treatment of insulin-stimulated sebocyte cultures reduced TG production by 51.07; 39.27 and 41.76% at concentrations of 0.100, 0.0316 and 0.0100 mg/ml, respectively, when compared to the only insulin stimulated group. The results obtained allow us to infer that GlyAHA protects the skin from deleterious effects of exposure to environmental factors, preventing the appearance of unaesthetic characteristics associated with skin aging through the stimulation of collagen production and epidermal renewal. In addition, GlyAHA has a beneficial effect on the oily skin and acne, since it promotes a reduction in triglycerides synthesis, which is the main component of sebum.