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Flavonoid?Enriched Plant?Extract?Loaded Emulsion: A Novel Phytocosmetic Sunscreen Formulation with Antioxidant Properties


Flavonoid?Enriched Plant?Extract?Loaded Emulsion: A Novel Phytocosmetic Sunscreen Formulation with Antioxidant Properties
Postado por: Samara Eberlin em 30 de Outubro de 2019

Letícia Caramori Cefali, Janaína Artem Ataide, Ana Rita Fernandes, Ilza Maria de Oliveira Sousa, Fernanda Cristina da Silva Gonçalves, Samara Eberlin, José Luis Dávila, Angela Faustino Jozala, Marco Vinicius Chaud, Elena Sanchez?Lopez, Joana Marto, Marcos Akira d’Ávila, Helena Margarida Ribeiro, Mary Ann Foglio, Eliana Barbosa Souto, Priscila Gava Mazzola.
Antioxidants (2019), 8:443
DOI: 10.3390/antiox8100443

The aim of this study was to develop a phytocosmetic sunscreen emulsion with antioxidant effect, containing a blend of flavonoid?enriched plant extracts. In vitro sun protection factor, antioxidant activity, skin irritation, photostability, cutaneous permeation, and retention of flavonoids were evaluated. Thermodynamically stable emulsions were obtained and tested for sensorial analysis after loading the blend of extracts. The selected emulsion was stable when stored at low temperatures (5ºC), for which after 120 days the concentration of quercetin and rutin were above their limit of quantification, i.e., 2.8 ± 0.39 ?g/mL and 30.39 ± 0.39 ?g/mL, respectively. Spreadability, low rupture strength and adhesiveness were shown to be similar to a conventional topical product. Higher brittleness, pseudo?plastic, and viscoelastic behaviors were also recorded for the developed phytocosmetic sunscreen. The product presented a critical wavelength of 387.0 nm and ultraviolet rays A and B (UVA/UVB) rate of 0.78, confirming that the developed formulation shows capacity for UVA/UVB protection, protecting skin against damages caused by Ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Rutin was shown to permeate the skin barrier and was also quantified in the stratum corneum (3.27 ± 1.92 ?g/mL) by tape stripping and retention test (114.68 ± 8.70 ?g/mL). The developed flavonoid?enriched phytocosmetic was shown to be non?irritant to skin by an in vitro assay. Our results confirm the antioxidant activity, sun protection, and physical properties of the developed phytocosmetic for topical application.