Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2023 (accepted).
Ana Paula Fonseca, Carine Dal Pizzol, Antonio Carlos Vanzo, Samara Eberlin, Gustavo Facchini, Gustavo Henrique da Silva, Ana Lúcia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro, Patrícia M. B. G. Maia Campos.
The development of effective products in mitigating the signs of skin aging is a complex process and requires an optimized combination of ingredients and specialized systems to deliver the actives to the layers of the skin. In this work, we carried out a clinical investigation to evaluate the tolerance and antiaging efficacy of a cosmetic formulation (AHHF-010) containing a blend of nanoencapsulated antioxidants - ascorbyl palmitate, resveratrol, tocopherol, caffeine, carnosine and niacinamide. Clinical efficacy were performed through subjective and instrumental analysis for collagen synthesis by fluorescence spectroscopy, suborbital edema by three-dimensional image analysis, skin hydration by corneometry and sebaceous production by sebumetry. Results showed that AHHF-010 was safe and effective in the improvement of skin appearance by increasing collagen synthesis, skin moisturizing, reduction in facial blemishes, swelling and oiliness. Preclinical exploratory approach, using an experimental model of human cell and skin cultures, corroborated the antiaging effects of AHHF-010 identifying mechanisms related to the containment of oxidative stress, reduction of melanin production, increase synthesis of type I procollagen and upregulation of epidermal cohesion protein filaggrin. The benefits obtained in the evaluated parameters, described in the present study, result from the combination of the established effectiveness of the ingredients in the formulation and the nanoencapsulation based delivery system, which favors solubility, safety, efficacy and bioavailability through the skin.